Above Stairs: Inside Colonial Williamsburg

I had the pleasure, nay, the privilege, of accompanying Mr. William Paca and Mrs. Anne Catherine Green on their journey to Williamsburg. The occasion? A new dress for Anne.

Mr. Paca and Mrs. Green speaking the Language of the Fan

Historic Annapolis commissioned The Margaret Hunter Shop: Milliners and Mantuamakers to manufacture the dress.

Mrs. Green models pieces of her unfinished dress

When you walk into the shop, centrally located on Duke of Gloucester street, you might be greeted by any one of the fine ladies that go about their work by the windows to catch the sunlight. You may be greeted by Sarah, and you may be tempted to think she is just an actress portraying a tradeswoman. But in that assumption, you would be wrong. Sarah is a very real seamstress, serving a very real apprenticeship under Janea Whitacre, a Mistress of the millinery and mantua-making trades, to become a milliner herself by trade.

Mrs. Green and Mr. Paca take a break around town in their finery

Part of the fun in Colonial Williamsburg is throwing 21st century technology at the first-person interpreters and watching how they handle each curveball you throw. Whether it be "making lightening" or "the devil's magic" or "one of Franklin's new inventions," the costumed acting-interpreters roaming the streets will answer you as a person of the 18th century. In the milliner's shop, the milliners will speak with you in the third-person, answering your questions candidly and in great detail. Sarah explained to us that this distinction is just another reminder that not only are the staff of the shop dressed and interpreting the colonial-era to guests, but are also keeping the craft alive and running a real business in their trade.

The milliners fitting Mrs. Green

Sarah also gave me some insight as to the lengths that Janea and her fellow Masters and Mistresses of Historic Trades must go through for their honorable title. The mastery process is not unlike a dissertation defense, in that you must gather a portfolio of all your work over the years and prove your skills in the craft. It is an accomplishment to be proud of. The current interns and apprentices may or may not continue on to pursue their mastery, but either way their experience and contribution in keeping the trade alive is invaluable.

Mr. Paca relaxes in the Millinery shop with a book

The Margaret Hunter Shop worked 70 hours over two days, fitting, measuring, cutting and hand-sewing the fabric by only natural light - which was scarce on this rainy weekend. Now, when I say 'measure', I don't mean with string or tape. The pieces of fabric that make up the gown are held up, slipped on, or otherwise fashioned to Anne's person to measure their fit to her body. This authenticity is what brought these ladies to Williamsburg. Preserving these unique talents is why Sarah, Emma, and many more interns over the years have and will continue to devote hours, weeks, and years to learning the trade.

Mr. Paca sits in on a fitting with his friend Mrs. Green

Anne Catherine's visit and the work on her dress drew many visitors to the shop - and why not? How often do you see 5 different women sewing away by hand to finish an entire dress in one weekend?

Mrs. Green discusses gown pockets with another Colonial lady, Mrs. Randolph

The final result was nothing short of amazing. The dress was finished at 5:00 on the dot Sunday evening, was a perfect homage to the Charles Willson Peale painting, and on its own was simply beautiful. Anne looked smashing!


Want to see Mrs. Green and her dress in person? You can! Mrs. Green and Mr. Paca will entertain guests at the Historic Annapolis Tavern Traipse on November 18th. This adults-only event features a tasting of three Colonial alcoholic drinks and period light fare as guests traipse around town from one 18th-century site to another learning about tavern life and libations. Details and tickets here.

Check out The Margaret Hunter Shop and Historic Annapolis to see photos of the finished work.

You can find The Margaret Hunter Shop on facebook or on the web

You can find Historic Annapolis on facebook or annapolis.org for more information about this wonderful weekend.

Please visit Colonial Williamsburg, on the web at history.org for more information about upcoming events and the very real trades that take place in the Historic city.

Day Tripping to City Tavern

This morning I had the best breakfast ever! It's all because yesterday we visited our colonial cousin, Philadelphia. We stepped back in time and dined with our Founding Fathers at City Tavern.

City Tavern is modern fine dining in the very building where the signers ate and drank - with the very food and drink they may have enjoyed. Like Gadsby's in Alexandria, City Tavern wants for you to have the most historically accurate meal possible while still affording you the conveniences of modern life, like air conditioning and credit cards. This means the recipes, tableware, furniture, and even the colonial garb of the waiters are carefully researched and crafted.

Even the beer has a history.

1.George Washington's Tavern Porter 2.Thomas Jefferson's 1774 Tavern Ale 3.Poor Richard's Tavern Spruce 4.Alexander Hamilton's Federalist Ale

The Tavern offers a Beer Sampler of the Ales of the Revolution from Yards Brewing Company. The two beers that really stand out are based on real revolutionary-era recipes. Washington's Porter somehow retains lightness against the deep taste of molasses. Its dark and malty but not heavy. Poor Richard's has a woody, smoky quality that sits on the back of your tongue and makes you wonder until you can't help but take another sip. (a hint: it's the spruce) We felt Jefferson and Hamilton's ales were good, but more like beers found in the modern era.

Before the meal, we were offered a selection of warm colonial breads. As soon as the pewter plate hit the table the fragrance of spices filled the air. Suddenly, it was a warm autumn day in a baker's kitchen. I could have sat there sniffing that perfumed air all day. A little butter made each slice a piece of heaven.

Pecan Sweet Potato biscuits, Spiced Molasses bread, and Colonial White Bread

I debated on ordering the rack of lamb, but it just didn't seem to be uniquely City Tavern. I wanted something historic and complex that said "Here I am in Philly and I'm so glad I made the trip (as if the bread didn't already win me over)." I settled on the same dish as my last visit: chicken Madeira.

Chicken Breast Madeira

Colonists may not have known what umami is, but they sure nailed it. Colonial food is full of rich gravies and dressings, and Madeira sauce is no exception. The earthy mushroom demi-glaze with a sweet tang of Madeira wine smothers chicken and mashed potatoes. The chicken is a full breast butterflied and perfectly cooked to be moist - no waste and no shortcuts. The mashed potatoes below are simple and not heavily seasoned. Rather than taking attention away from the sauce, they are the perfect sponge to get every last drop off the plate.

The mashed potatoes, Madeira sauce, and chicken played together wonderfully and the dish was just what I wanted.

Another round of those tasty breads came out with the food but we didn't have any room in our tummies to even consider touching it, so our nice waiter packed it up for us to take home. And this morning, I ended our meal in our own colonial hometown with crunchy pecan sweet potato biscuits and dark spicy molasses bread.

A trip to City Tavern is worth the $20 in tolls.

Because History tastes good.